Did you know there’s a city in India that author Mark Twain once said is older than history, older than tradition, and even older than legend? A place where sacred rituals and traditions of India still unfold daily? That place is Varanasi, in the state of Uttar Pradesh. If you’ve traveled to India without visiting Varanasi, many would say you haven’t truly experienced India.
Varanasi (formerly known as Benares, Banares, or Kashi) sits along the sacred Ganges River and is known by many names: “City of Learning,” “City of Philosophers,” and “City of Light.” It is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities.
For Hindus, visiting Varanasi is a spiritual privilege — being cremated by the Ganges here is believed to grant liberation. For Buddhists, it’s equally sacred, as the nearby Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon.
Getting to Varanasi
- By air: Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (also known as Babatpur Airport) is 18 km from the city center. Domestic airlines like Air India, IndiGo, and SpiceJet connect Varanasi to major Indian cities, while international routes include destinations like Sharjah, Kathmandu, Colombo, and Bangkok.
- By bus: Connected via national highways to cities like Kolkata, Delhi, Agra, and Bangalore.
- By train: Varanasi Junction (Varanasi Cantt.) is the major railway hub with 240 trains passing through daily.
Getting Around
The city lacks a metro and has limited buses, so auto rickshaws are the main way to get around. Bargaining is essential. For short trips, expect around 15 rupees/km. For multiple stops in a day, negotiate a full-day rate upfront.
Exploring the old town on foot is recommended. If you get lost, remember this trick: all paths eventually lead to the Ganges.
Boat rides during sunrise or sunset on the Ganges are a must. Book in advance for early morning rides. Price: ~150 rupees for a 4-person boat per hour.
Where to Stay
Recommended Area: Assi Ghat – a cleaner and quieter area with easy walking access to other ghats.
- Stay Inn Hostel: Affordable dorm rooms, good location near markets and restaurants. Rooms are simple with ceiling fans, no AC, and mosquitoes at night.
- Rahul Guesthouse: Higher-end rooms with air-conditioning and large bathrooms. Located slightly off the main road with limited accessibility. Rooftop restaurant available, though Wi-Fi is spotty outside the rooftop area.
Top Places to Visit in Varanasi
Assi Ghat
- Location: Southern end of the riverfront
- Entry: Free
- Note: Dedicated to Shiva; use this as a reference point when exploring other ghats.
Dashashwamedh Ghat (Main Ghat)
- Location: Near Kashi Vishwanath Temple
- Entry: Free
This is the busiest ghat and a hub of contrasts — sacred and profane, silence and chaos. Every evening at 7 PM, the Ganga Aarti ceremony is held here with lights, chants, and incense in honor of the river goddess.
Manikarnika Ghat (Burning Ghat)
- Location: Between Dashashwamedh and Scindia Ghats
- Entry: Free
This is the main cremation ghat and considered the holiest by Hindus. The cremation flame here has burned continuously for over 2,000 years. Bodies are cremated 24/7, and ashes are immersed into the Ganges.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple)
- Location: Western bank of the Ganges, accessible via Vishwanath Gali
- Entry: Free
- Hours: 3 AM – 11 PM daily
- Note: Bags, phones, and pens are not allowed inside
Dedicated to Shiva, this is one of the most famous Hindu temples. It’s marked by three golden domes and attracts up to a million devotees during festivals.
Ramnagar Fort
- Location: 14 km from the city center, across the river from Tulsi Ghat
- Entry: 200 rupees (adults), 100 rupees (children)
- Hours: 10 AM – 5 PM
Built in the 18th century, the fort is home to a museum showcasing royal artifacts, weapons, and vintage vehicles. The current Maharaja still resides in a private section.
Sarnath (Deer Park)
- Location: 13 km northeast of Varanasi
- Entry: Museum: 5 rupees; Archaeological site: 250 rupees
- Hours: 9 AM – 5 PM (closed Fridays for the museum)
Sarnath is where Buddha delivered his first sermon and established his monastic order. Key sites include the Dhamek Stupa, Chaukhandi Stupa, Ashoka Pillar, and the Mulagandha Kuti Temple with its serene deer park.
Local Food
Food is inexpensive in Varanasi. Street food includes egg rolls, dosa, and lassi. However, prices are slightly higher along the riverfront.
Recommended Restaurants
- Lotus Lounge: Offers riverside seating and safe, tasty meals.
- Shiva Café & German Bakery: Diverse menu with Indian, Nepali, Thai, and Western dishes.
- Mona Lisa Café: Tasty and budget-friendly Italian and Asian dishes.
- Baba Lassi: Famous for generous and delicious lassis — try the pomegranate, strawberry, and iconic blue lassi.
Travel Tips
- Evenings and early mornings can be chilly — bring warm clothes.
- Frequent power outages — carry a flashlight if heading out after dark.
- Keep an eye on your belongings, especially in crowded ghats.
- Be wary of locals posing as volunteer guides who demand tips.
- Some sadhu (Hindu ascetics) may charge for photos — but true sadhus won’t ask for money.
- Never photograph cremations — it’s seen as deeply disrespectful and can result in serious repercussions.
- Monkeys are common, especially in the old town — don’t leave food unattended.
- Cows roam freely and are sacred — don’t disturb them, even if they block traffic.
With its blend of ancient mysticism, living traditions, and spiritual depth, Varanasi offers a profound experience for any traveler. Just tread with respect, humility, and open eyes.
